More Trail Mail

Alex writes:

June 16, 2008
Mile 734.3
On top of a saddle at 10,400 feet

We're in the mountains!!! Have I mentioned I LOVE the mountains? I mean love. Head over heels, drooling and bumping into things love. There are big pine trees, pinyon and ponderosa and some I don't know, and big sequoias, and there are giant slabs of granite all around, on the sides of hills and under our feet and off to the side of the trail. There are meadows that are green, bright brilliant zingy green, and there's hellebore! Hellebore is the most poisonous plant that grows natively in Washington State, and Sye and I first really noticed it when we started using its leaves to wipe our asses years and years ago. Know why there's hellebore here? Because there's water EVERYWHERE!!!! I ran out of water today during a supposedly 4 mile dry stretch, according to the Data Book, but lo and behold, I came across a trickle of a creek right away, and then another one soon after. I LOVE water! Even the sound of it makes me smile.

The first real river we hit was the South Fork of the Kern River about 3 to 4 miles before Kennedy Meadows, the entry way to the High Sierras. Coming upon that river was incredible, perhaps one of my favorite moments on the trip thus far. We'd been hiking through a recently burned area and the trail was totally exposed. It was dry and hot and suddenly I could hear it, that wonderful gurgling and blupping, and I immediately wanted a drink and wanted to pee and wanted to immerse my whole self in that river, and I also just felt better. I could hear the water off and on for about 30 minutes before I could actually see the river, and when I finally did get to it, I had the most glorious swim. I found a spot with a swift current on one side and an eddy and pool sort of in the middle, and I could ride the current into the pool. It was like a slip 'n slide or water park ride all for me! Then when I got to Kennedy Meadows, I drank orange soda and then a Vitamin Water, ate pretzels and crackers and a half pint of Chunky Monkey. That was a good day. That was also the end of our desert stretch. Did I mention that I like mountains? And water. And Chunky Monkey.


Sye writes:

6/17/08

We're camped here at 750 miles, at the edge of Chicken Spring Lake (wonder how it got its name) and we're now, undoubtedly, out of the desert. I guess I'm a little shocked it's all behind us, and that now we're camped at 11,250 feet, fighting mosquitoes off with head nets and a breeze, and will be at the meadow below Mt. Whitney tomorrow. There's still a lot to say about the desert, about how there were no mosquitoes, and we really only had to set up the tarp once for rain, how hiking in the mornings and evenings was amazing, how we saw all different kinds of cactus flowers, and wildflowers, and lizards, and ants. So many busy ants, sometimes next to my head while sleeping. And there was the wind. But the desert seems to bring out the trail angels -- places to stay in extreme weather, caches of water & beer & soda, people in small towns who just want to chat. I have a feeling we'll see less of that friendliness from strangers, but what I really want to tell you about is where we are now. On a lake that looks much like the Enchantments in WA, in sub-alpine meadows and peaks of rock and golden crags. We're hiking slower, maybe because everyone said we would or because of the altitude, or because we don't need to get to Independence for a few days extra because the post office is closed on Saturday and Sunday. So our days are slower, with a lot more gandering at the scenery. And while I worry that we're getting to many days behind schedule, I should really just enjoy these mountains while we got them.

All the folks we spent a lot of time hiking with through the desert are in front or behind us, and I miss their company. Everyone's new again and already has their adventures in common and I suppose we feel a bit like outsiders. But everyone says, you always see people again on this trail, even if it's a few hundred miles later.


Alex writes:

June 17, 2008
Chicken Spring Lake
Mile 750.7

Today was our estimated summit date for Mt. Whitney. I guess we're 2 days behind schedule. Not bad. We've spent the last couple days wandering, or so it feels. We're only doing ≈ 16 mile days through the High Sierra, mostly because Yogi kept suggesting it, but I'm sure glad we're not pushing for 20+ miles per day like we were through Southern California. First off, it's way too beautiful to rush through. Second, I just feel so lazy -- and I'm not the only one. I want to stop all the time and rest or look at the views or take a nap. I'm thinking maybe it's the altitude. We've consistently been above 10,000 feet for the last couple days -- maybe we're just adjusting.

We got to the first alpine lake today, Chicken Spring Lake. Beautiful lake in the middle of a rocky circle with a nice meadow on the outlet side. Spiff and I promptly jumped into it upon arriving. That is, after all, the only thing to do when encountering a lake. It was 7 PM and we made it in before the sun went behind the ridge, but it was all in shade when we got out. We're sleeping above the lake tonight and we can hear the frogs chorusing down below.

Another thing I like about the Sierras: the snags are golden. Not weathered white, but weathered golden. Their wood's all twisted and spiraled too. I think they used to be fox-tail pines, but I'm not certain.


June 19, 2008
Upper Crabtree Meadow, Ranger Station
Mile 767.3

We climbed Mt. Whitney today.
I passed lots and lots of day hikers on the way up, and felt like a rockstar. I wasn't even trying. Perhaps my body is changing a bit.
Jumped into a little unnamed lake above Guitar Lake on the way down. I'm happy to be lake jumping again.
Sierras look like waves from above. Beautiful.
I'm tired and I'm going to sleep. We climb Forester Pass tomorrow.


June 20, 2008

Climbed Forester Pass today. Lost the trail multiple times because of snow. Had to route find, which is always fun and a lot of work. We dropped down into a valley full of water. We're probably at 8,500 feet. Crazy after nearly a week above 10,000 feet.

Kinds of Pine Trees we've seen:

Coulter Pine
Jeffery Pine
Ponderosa Pine
Sugar Pine
Western White Pine
Pinyon Pine
Foxtail Pine
Lodgepole Pine

Songs I've been singing in my head throughout the trip:

"I want you / I want you so bad it's driving me mad it's driving me mad"
--The Beatles

"Ain't no one in the whole world knows my name"
--Gillian Welch

"I would walk 500 miles and I would walk 500 more / just to be the man who walked 1,000 miles and fell down at your door."
-- ?

"This is what it sounds like when doves cry"
--Prince (but the live Ani cover, sorry Lucy)


Sye writes:

6/22/08

Took a day in Independence and went to a movie theater with a bunch of hikers! What a luxury to sit back and be over-stimulated and entertained by an overdone action film. We're a few days behind schedule, but don't want to rush out of the beautiful mountains yet. Should be leaving Tuolumne Meadows a few days behind schedule. We can't wait for our visitors!! -Spiff